Known around the world for its historic charm and southern hospitality, Savannah's reputation as the 'Hostess City of the South' precedes itself. America's first planned city is today one of the most visited cities of the Old South, welcoming several million visitors per year. As the historic capital of the former Province of Georgia, and later of the Royal Colony of the same name, Savannah's significance within the identity of The South cannot be overstated. Built according to plans put forth by founder General James Edward Oglethorpe the Old Town district is today a magnificent example of a planned city, America's first. Its historic streetscapes have been preserved collectively as one of the largest National Historic Landmark Districts in the country. This edition of Cityscape will take the reader on a stroll through historic Savannah, on a photographic journey into the architectural heritage of one of America's most fascinating cities. 

"Greetings from Savannah Georgia," vintage postcard, c. 1950s, public domain archival image

Founded in 1733 by British General James Edward Oglethorpe, 1 of 114 colonists sent from England aboard the Anne, Savannah became the capital of the newly created Province of Georgia. The settlement was part of a larger plan to create a geographical barrier between the British-American colonies and Spanish Florida to the south and French Louisiana to the west. After being warmly received by the local Yamacraw people, Oglethorpe bartered a deal with them to allow he and his fellow settlers to move onto their land and create their colony, while the Yamacraw ultimately agreed to move their village upriver.

"A View of Savannah as it stood on the 29th of March 1734," public domain archival image

Before long, Savannah began to take shape. The city grid remains largely intact to this day, and owes its roots to the original city planning efforts of Oglethorpe and his men. Known as the Oglethorpe Plan, the historic city was laid out in a system whereby the street grid was built block-by-block around a series of civic squares, eventually 24 in number, 21 of which survive to this day. Viewed above from an early illustration of the colony dating back to 1734, the city unfolded along rational lines, with the first four squares appearing ahead of future development. 

Gordon Monument in Wright Square, Savannah, image by Flickr user Elyktra via Creative Commons

Built into the fabric of the city right from the very start, Savannah's 24 squares were incorporated into the street grid as the city grew inland from the water, creating a now cherished collection of beautiful public green spaces spread evenly throughout the entirety of the historic district. Beginning with the original four as laid out by Oglethorpe himself (including Wright Square as seen above) the squares were constructed between 1733 and 1851, and have remained as a defining feature of the old city for nearly 300 years. 

Vintage postcard view looking down Bull Street, c. 1905, with Johnson Square and others visible, public domain archival image

Despite their important place in the city's history, by the early 20th century, the squares were beginning to frustrate urban planners. Several of them were bisected by traffic lanes in an effort to appease motorists, and even three were even removed in the 1950s in a move that prompted local preservationists to form the Historic Savannah Foundation. Organized around a group of several prominent Georgia women, the preservationist group successfully blocked any further demolitions, working to save not only the remaining squares, but countless historic buildings as well. This lead the old city centre to be designated as a National Historic Landmark District in 1966. 

Historic River Street, Savannah, image by Flickr user Trixie.in.Dixie via Creative Commons

Refurbished in the late 1970s, historic River Street runs along the banks of the Savannah River. As the oldest part of the city, it was once the site of countless warehouses and other light industrial sites. The former capital's central place within the cotton industry fostered a great deal of development along the river throughout the 19th century. Stretching along the full length of the historic district's central waterfront, River Street is home to a heritage tramway, cobblestone streets, and a collection of preserved historic buildings. 

"The Garages," former Slave Barracoons, or Barracks, image by Flickr user *w* via Creative Commons

Tucked behind the shops of River Street, the remains of former Slave Barracoons, or Barracks, an integral part of the troubling history of the American Slave Trade, can be found. The grim masonry-constructed holding cells endure as a disturbing reminder of one of the nation's darkest chapters. A popular site among urban explorers, the site is not nearly as well advertised as Savannah's better-known historic sites. Known today as 'The Garages,' the former slave holding cells were once home to hundreds of recently arrived African slaves. 

Olde Pink House, formerly the James Habersham House (1771), image by Flickr user Melanie McCue via Creative Commons

Moving inland, the heart of the Savannah Historic District is rich in local history, featuring an impressive collection of private residences, schools, places of worship, and other public buildings, which have all played key roles in the history of the city. Viewed above, the distinctively coloured Olde Pink House Restaurant & Tavern, as it is known today, was originally built in 1771 as the home of local cotton magnate James Habersham Jr. It remains today as the only surviving example of an 18th-century mansion in Savannah, having just narrowly escaped the fire of 1796. Built in the classic Georgian style, the home's outward appearance is typical of many other Antebellum Period residences and other structures found throughout Savannah to this day. 

Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace, formerly the Wayne-Gordon House (1818), image by Flickr user sfgamchick via Creative Commons

Viewed above, the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace Historic Site is one of the most visited sites in Savannah. The childhood home of the founder of the Girl Scouts, and subsequent original headquarters of the same organization, attracts hundreds of tourists every day as a stop on nearly every tour of the city. Originally built in 1818 as the Wayne-Gordon House, the home was designed in the Early Republic style then fashionable, with overt Italianate influences found throughout. The home today is the centrepiece of the Juliette Gordon Low Historic District, a designation it has held since its dedication as a National Historic Landmark in 1965.

First African Baptist Church, image by Flickr user ATOMIC Hot Links via Creative Commons

Founded in 1773 by ex-slave George Leile, the first African American licensed as a Preacher in the Baptist Church, the First African Baptist Church in Savannah lays claim as the first of its kind in America. The present building, which dates to the 1850s, has stood alongside Franklin Square since the Antebellum Period, making it a unique part of Savannah's complex cultural history. An all-black church in the heart of a Slave State, the First African Baptist Church was the site of much hardship and prayer, and its role among the local African American community today is one of reverence and remembrance. 

Congregation Mickve Israel (1878), image by Flickr user Chris M Morris via Creative Commons

Among the first settlers to arrive in Savannah, a group of 40 Sephardic Jews came to the colony in 1733 via London. The newcomers were quick to consecrate a place of worship, and the Congregation Mickve Israel dates back to 1735. The current structure, as seen above, dates to 1878, and is one of the few extant examples in the world of a Gothic-styled Synagogue. The structure was placed upon the National Register of Historic Places in 1980, and the building today is among the long list of must-see historic sites for anyone planning a trip to Savannah.  

Central of Georgia Railroad, Roundhouse (1853), image by Flickr user Bubba73 via Creative Commons

Located at the edge of the historic district, the Georgia State Railroad Museum is situated within the remains of the Central of Georgia Railroad Roundhouse and Terminal Building. The operable turntable and collection of restored locomotives are a major draw for rail buffs and history enthusiasts alike. Originally built in 1853, the Roundhouse, Repair Barns, and Terminal Buildings are among the best-preserved examples of Victorian-Era railroad infrastructure in the world. The Roundhouse in particular is the last of its kind dating to the Antebellum Period left in the Old South. A central fixture of Georgia's cotton-driven economic history, the facility was spared total destruction during the Civil War and remained in use into the 1960s. It was closed in 1963 and designated in 1989 as a National Historic Landmark District. 

Savannah skyline at night, image by Flickr user Robert Sellers via Creative Commons

A major presence on the American Eastern Seaboard for 284 years, the historic former colonial capital city has had a hand to play in virtually every major event in American history. From its founding in 1733, through the troubling history of the Antebellum Period and the turbulence and aftermath of the Civil War, and into our own time, of the era of Civil Rights and beyond, the city today has weathered it all, emerging into the 21st century as a permanent marker of American history. 

Cityscape will return soon with a new installment, and in the meantime, SkyriseCities welcomes new suggestions for additional cities and styles to cover in the weeks to come. Got an idea for the next issue? Let us know!