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C

Christopher DeWolf

Guest
HK 2.0

huzzah! the hong kong series resumes! since the first part of the series focused exclusively on kowloon, i figured it would be fitting to start this time with hong kong island. to make a long-winded introduction short, hong kong feels quite different from kowloon. it's definitely wealthier and more gentrified -- shopping here isn't quite the bargain it is in places like mongkok. most surprising is the relative lack of traffic. there aren't too many private cars on the streets here, compared to kowloon, and they're mostly luxury vehicles (mercedes, bentleys and rolls royces) or delivery vans. plenty of buses and taxis, though. the geography is also quite distinct, as you'll see -- far hillier than most of kowloon.

ON THE TROLLEY

one of the most distinctive features of HK island is the double-decker trolleys that ply is main artery. they're made of wood, cost very little -- just HK$2 or CAD$0.25 -- and run very frequently. there's no air conditioning, either, but the windows are all thrown wide open, which makes for a perfect opportunity to take photos.

oh, and they're called "ding-dings" in colliquial cantonese. isn't that cute?

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we start in north point, one of the eastern terminals. we're going to head west to kennedy town, the western terminus.

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we've just passed victoria park and have entered into causeway bay, HK's most prominent shopping district.

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we've skipped through wan chai and admiralty and have now entered central.

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we've just passed through sheung wan, which abuts central, and have a clear view of hong kong's biggest phallic object.

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now we're in western, one of the more old-school districts on the island.

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CAUSEWAY BAY

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causeway bay is hong kong's biggest, busiest, glitziest shopping district. (although mongkok is a close rival for the title of busiest.) there's everything you'd expect: times square billboards (not so much neon), big malls, enormous japanese department stores, cinemas, restaurants, etc. etc. etc.

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on sundays, indonesians, most of them domestics, flood the neighbourhood to shop and hang out. (sunday is their only day off.)

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on this single block, there is an IKEA, two cinemas, an HMV megastore, a huge 24-hour supermarket and two shopping malls containing dozens of smaller stores.

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anybody visiting HK who either reads chinese or is interested in indie music should visit mackie study, a tiny bookstore-café tucked away in the third floor of an old building here in causeway bay. their music collection focuses on HK indie pop and rock, with indie music from taiwan, north america and europe, too. (i bought keren ann's cd "nolita" there for just CAD$15 -- cheaper, strangely, than you'd be able to find here.) their selection of books leans heavily on self-published stuff and small press.

flat a, 2/f, 52 yun ping road, causeway bay, hk.

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that's it for now -- there will be more in a few days.
 
Re: Return of HONG KONG :: 2.0 :: Causeway Bay and the Troll

Happy to know that you enjoyed your ride on the Tramway. I've never lived on Hong Kong Island, so I'm very envious of people who live there and have tram stops just downstairs from where they live. I like riding TTC streetcars, but in my opinion there's no streetcar ride in the world better than one on Hongkong Tramways.

For some reason I can't see the Causeway Bay photos, but I've experienced the Sundays in Causeway Bay that you were talking about. The pink pedestrian bridge with the arches is really popular with Indonesian domestics on Sundays... they stoop on the sidewalks under the bridge, sit on all the stairs and anywhere on the bridge with a shade... don't even think about using the bridge on Sundays! It's quite unfortunate that Hong Kong's ethnic groups have to congregate like this... here in North America they would have formed a vibrant ethnic neighbourhood a long time ago.
 
Re: Return of HONG KONG :: 2.0 :: Causeway Bay and the Troll

but in my opinion there's no streetcar ride in the world better than one on Hongkong Tramways

I wonder what the cost of a Hong Kong tram is compared to a CLRV. The HK one seems to be made of wood and a little steel. Must be very cheap, which is good. I wonder if they are constantly being rebuilt - labour is cheap there so I figure must be very cheap to maintain.

The $2 fare is very good, especially convient with Octopus card, and you can eat and drink on it. However, I would take the TTC streetcar anyday. Its way too hot in the summers in HK to travel without airconditioning. Its great for tourists, but I would find it hard for commutters dressed in business clothes.

Hong Kong is actually pretty clean now, but it still seems very dirty. Must be the slums, err, gritty appartments and the people. I have yet to take a commute ride in HK without seeing someone picking there nose. When you must have no spitting signs, you gotta figure as much.

I would have taken pictures of HK disney (went there on the 2nd day of its opening), but it was so crappy ....
 
Re: Return of HONG KONG :: 2.0 :: Causeway Bay and the Troll

actually, hong kong seemed extremely clean to me -- i mean, the MTR has employees permanently stationed at the foot of some escalators to sterilize the handrails. i've heard it used to be quite dirty but SARS changed everything.

the one noticably unhygenic thing about HK was the many mysterious wet spots and puddles on streets and sidewalks, from the constantly dripping air conditioners, leaking garbage, etc. still, compared to canadian cities, there was virtually no litter and surfaces were spotless.

i personally found the trolleys quite refreshing. there's no AC but on the second level there is a constant breeze because the windows are all open.
 
Re: Return of HONG KONG :: 2.0 :: Causeway Bay and the Troll

I was in Hong Kong a few weeks ago, but i didn't get to ride the tram...but I enjoyed the subway very much. Very nice photo's (except for the rain) I look forward to going back.
 
Re: Return of HONG KONG :: 2.0 :: Causeway Bay and the Troll

mean, the MTR has employees permanently stationed at the foot of some escalators to sterilize the handrails

I like the idea that the MTR has of not allowing eating or drinking on the subway/paid station areas, even though I saw a few kids violating this. I think they should incorporate this on the TTC, buses included.
 
Re: Return of HONG KONG :: 2.0 :: Causeway Bay and the Troll

Its way too hot in the summers in HK to travel without airconditioning. Its great for tourists, but I would find it hard for commutters dressed in business clothes.

There was a campaign this summer in Hong Kong to save energy by turning air conditioning in buildings and public transit vehicled to the optimal temperature of 25.5 degrees C, and for office workers to wear lighter clothing. A few newspapers sent reporters to take temperatures of KMB buses and KCR commuter trains, and found them to be terribly cold. A lot of commuters complained that the vehicles were so cold they needed to bring a jacket when commuting (this is one reason why you would find schoolgirls in Hong Kong wearing wool sweaters in the middle of July!).

I find the A/C to be bearable on most HK public transit vehicles, but old MTR trains get very breezy when travelling in tunnels. The best A/C are on the buses and minibuses- every seat has an adjustable A/C nozzle above it, so the passenger can adjust the intensity and the direction of the air. I don't think VIVA can match that!

I wonder what the cost of a Hong Kong tram is compared to a CLRV. The HK one seems to be made of wood and a little steel. Must be very cheap, which is good. I wonder if they are constantly being rebuilt - labour is cheap there so I figure must be very cheap to maintain.

There have been cases in the past where tram passengers have been electrocuted by holding onto a handrail that was not properly insulated (I don't think anybody ever died from such an incident).

Not all the HK trams are wood and metal. I think some of you might have seen the "Millennium Tram"... these trams (I think there are only two of them in the fleet) are very modern-looking...

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