[hkskyline]

The Yellow River is the cradle of Chinese civilization. Xian served as the imperial capital for over a thousand years, and was the end of the Silk Road. Overshadowed by Beijing today, its past is nevertheless glorious and some of it is now accessible to visitors.

The full set is on my website : http://www.globalphotos.org/xian.htm

1. The Terra-Cotta Warriors is a large site consisting of 3 pits and a large museum. The museum displays examples of the various statues that have been unearthed in the pits so far.

2. Two chariots were unearthed with horses and riders. All the tour groups gathered around for a look. However, they didn't seem to understand flash should not be used. Quite amazing that they buried these huge sculptures.

5. I was surprised no safety covers were placed in Pit 2, and in the other pits as well. Wouldn't the humidity from all the visitors damage the warriors?

9. The high-ranking officers should be well-fed and their bodies reflect that.

10. The kneeling warrior got a lot of attention. The facial expression is very clear, and the details are amazing.

11. Pit 3 is the smallest one, but it was nevertheless still interesting as they tried to arrange some of the warriors into formation.

13. Pit 1 is the largest and has the most spectacular formation.

18. The warriors were meant to protect Qin Shi Huang's tomb. Although the tomb has been found, it has not yet been excavated. The area is now a huge park, with a surprising number of cherry blossom trees.

21. Back in the city, the Bell Tower sits in the heart of a massive traffic circle where the north-south and east-west axes intersect. Like most of Xian's big attractions, it costs a lot of money to go in. 50 yuan later, I had a ticket for this and also the nearby Drum Tower.

29. The tower isn't tall enough to see the roofs of its neighbours, but it does offer a clear view of the Drum Tower.

30. Dating from the Ming Dynasty, the Drum Tower was built in the 14th century and features various drums that depict the ancient weather calendar.

35. Looking back towards the Bell Tower, which seems small compared to its more modern neighbours.

43. Xian's current city wall primarily dates from the Ming dynasty. Well-preserved and intact, the wall itself is quite wide and can easily accomodate both cyclists and pedestrians.

45. 40 yuan later, enter the gate and head up the staircase to the top of the city wall.

48. A renovated street lined with historic architecture, Shuyuanmen pedestrian street specializes in cultural works, including Chinese calligraphy brushes and paintings. While there is a food stall every now and then, the atmosphere is still very cultural.

59. Capture the revolutionary spirit with these thin metal cups. Pay 10 yuan.

 

[Mustapha]

Very nice. Wish I can go someday.

 

[hkskyline]

Xian's bustling Muslim quarter consists of several streets of markets selling everything from noodles to souvenirs.

"Mo" is a local delicacy consisting of bread dunk into a soupy mixture.

 

[Jayomatic]

Great photos! Bring back memories of visiting there in 2008. It's great to see shots of the city with less smog than what I saw when I was there.

I do remember having one of my favourite meals there at some small place. It was basically noodles with minced meat in a tomato sauce. Delicious.

 

[TrickyRicky]

I was in Xian in the late 90's. They were in the process of basically destroying the entire historical heart of the city to put up ugly precast and blue mirror window malls etc. I hope at least some of the historical vibe of the city survived and the city has at least matured into less of a gigantic fiasco.

 

[hkskyline]

Although Xian was the imperial capital for a thousand years, the actual location of the capital differed. For example, the Qin and Han capitals was northwest of the present city, the Zhou capital was due west. During the Tang dynasty, the city of Chang'an was the largest city in the world.

The basement level has 2 exhibitions. One of them requires the special ticket that I had bought to bypass the free entry line. This paid exhibit hosts a number of precious artifacts, such as the below bowl with calligraphy written on it. Wonder if the ink would disappear if the plate is used for dining?

This interesting item is well-advertised on the museum literature. Since it seems to be a "must-see", no wonder this part of the exhibit required extra payment. Dating from the Tang dynasty, this cup is shaped like a beast but it clearly can function as well.

Xian's historic attractions have so far displayed the glory of the Qin and Tang dynasties. But the Han dynasty also had its capital here, and Hanyangling is the tomb of one of its emperors. An underground museum allows visitors to gaze at the burial pits behind protective glass.

The Han figurines were clothed, but time has destroyed those. The arms and hands were made of wood and could move, but those have also not survived the test of time. What remains today are the heads, bodies, and legs, which look quite eerie.

The museum's walkway crosses several pits. At these locations, the walkway turns into glass so visitors can peer directly below their feet to see what has been uncovered.

 

[Hipster Duck]

I was in Xian in the late 90's. They were in the process of basically destroying the entire historical heart of the city to put up ugly precast and blue mirror window malls etc. I hope at least some of the historical vibe of the city survived and the city has at least matured into less of a gigantic fiasco.

Tricky, I see this too, and it makes me cringe. But I've begun to see things a little differently.

I see historic preservation as a western cultural phenomenon - and, more specifically, a European cultural phenomenon. Historic preservation of any kind in North America was basically a non-starter until the late 1960s, and even the best landmarks of any era were routinely demolished without much thought.

There are two reasons for this. The first reason is - and I know my Eurosnobbery is going to come through - relatively pragmatic: the pre-modern European urban vernacular is much more versatile and adaptable to changes in lifestyle with modern technology than any other. A pre-industrial revolution Georgian rowhouse in Edinburgh or a Rennaisance-era block in Rome was built, maybe accidentally, with things like 9 foot high ceilings, large exterior windows and to face a street that could be adaptable for any range of transport, whether it was horses with carriages or modern automobiles. A hutong in Beijing is built in a warren of indecipherable pedestrian alleys with a small inward facing courtyard and often with low ceilings. We may think the latter is quaint, but it is decidedly more difficult to adapt a Chinese or pre-war Japanese urban fabric to modern technology than it was for Europeans to adapt Florence, Seville or Bruges. Now, of course, I recognize that it is a chicken-and-egg issue and that our very notion of modernity and modern conveyances is derived from Western Europe because they were the first places in the world to industrialize. Not surprisingly, modern technology for the home had to adopt, slowly but surely, to what was there. But we can't change stuff that happened 200 years ago and since things like a living room, private kitchen and bath facilities, and bright windows that allow natural light to filter in are now almost universally prized as symbols of middle class living the world over, it's difficult to change this. The Chinese city will have to adapt to these technologies, and not the other way around.

Secondly, we have an ethic of preservation because we have a supportable feeling that whatever we build today - especially in North America - will be less vibrant and spontaneous in forming street life and enjoyment than what people built before World War 2. That is not the case in an Asian city where a neighbourhood that was farmland 20 years ago could feel as worn and lived-in as Kensington market, with as much street life. Imagine we knew that we could demolish entire streets like Dundas West or Bloor through the Annex and replace them with 5 or 6 storey modern blocks - and still keep all the vibrancy and life. How many more of us would warm up to the idea?

 

[TrickyRicky]

Hipster, I appreciate both your points. Perhaps what bothers me in places like Xian is that the rapidity of change doesn't let people absorb or even have a discussion about what is taking place in their own city. And also, selfishly, I feel the opposite that such places because of their historical importance have an importance and meaning for mankind beyond the immediate feelings of the local population. I was recently in Pompeii and to be honest the vibe you get is the locals, those that don't have some kind of food cart in front of the entrance, would as soon see the place be levelled for a Walmart parking lot as exist as some kind of eternal monument to a long dead civilization wasting space in their urban fabric.

My feelings on the subject are clear but for the reasons you outline and countless more I can't really say the local people are wrong either.

 

[hkskyline]

Small Wild Goose Pagoda
Built during the Tang dynasty in the 8th century, the pagoda originally had 15 stories but a subsequent earthquake in the 16th century destroyed the top.

It is possible to climb to the top for a panoramic view of Xian.

Looking south, there seem to be more historic buildings next to the pagoda in a very green setting.

Looking east, a line of skyscrapers marks the main boulevard that leads to the south gate.

A bit tired from the climb, the visit continues through the temple complex.

Big Wild Goose Pagoda
Across town, this pagoda also dates from the Tang dynasty. While the pagoda and temple are enclosed inside the wall, more modern amenities surrounded it.