Mustapha
Senior Member
"R.I.P." As were the Forsyth shirts that used to be made in Kitchener. Available at Zellers up until 2003 or so. $25. Made in Canada. Nice for the price. What a loss. And the jobs too.
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- Thread starter Mustapha
- Start date
"R.I.P." As were the Forsyth shirts that used to be made in Kitchener. Available at Zellers up until 2003 or so. $25. Made in Canada. Nice for the price. What a loss. And the jobs too.
J T CUNNINGHAM
Senior Member
"Surgeon's cuff, eh? Do you leave the bottom button open so the initiated will notice?" QUOTE Mustapha.
You just had to pose that question, didn't you!
Well here goes. Frank Zappa looked at me one day and said "Jack, you are missing a button on your suit jacket sleeve".
Understanding that Frank always was impressed with my dress, bringing this to my attention was in itself, important.
Frank was a man of few words, with an unbelievably dry sense of humour. (Frank being an American, humor.)
I very casually undid the first two buttons of the cuff to show the third. I uttered not a word.
From that day foward with Frank + John, I was known as "The Mannequin".
Regards,
J T
R I P
Frank Zappa
1940 - 1993.
You just had to pose that question, didn't you!
Well here goes. Frank Zappa looked at me one day and said "Jack, you are missing a button on your suit jacket sleeve".
Understanding that Frank always was impressed with my dress, bringing this to my attention was in itself, important.
Frank was a man of few words, with an unbelievably dry sense of humour. (Frank being an American, humor.)
I very casually undid the first two buttons of the cuff to show the third. I uttered not a word.
From that day foward with Frank + John, I was known as "The Mannequin".
Regards,
J T
R I P
Frank Zappa
1940 - 1993.
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Goldie
Senior Member
Toronto's Promenade
Always curious about the meaning of "Esplanade"
This post prompted my search: "a level space, esp. for a promenade as along the seafront of a town"
I expect Queens Quay (see attached thumbnail) is now Toronto's esplanade
- a long way from the original - although, it was certainly once our 'sea front'
January 25 addition.
Then. "November 28 1932. Esplanade [can't make it out] E from Princess".
Now. November 2010.
Always curious about the meaning of "Esplanade"
This post prompted my search: "a level space, esp. for a promenade as along the seafront of a town"
I expect Queens Quay (see attached thumbnail) is now Toronto's esplanade
- a long way from the original - although, it was certainly once our 'sea front'
Attachments
NomoreaTorontonian
Active Member
The first "esplanade" was Front Street. Brown's Street Directory of 1861-2 only mentions an esplanade once as if it was a spur of Front Street. This was somewhere around Simcoe. By 1864, in Mitchell's Directory, all the wharves from Gooderhams to the Queen's Wharf (for the Garrison) were on The Esplanade, and Front Street was a little bit back from the waters edge.
Usually I like the atmosphere of the old photos more than the new, but not those two of Esplanade and Princess (which started out as Princes) Street.
Usually I like the atmosphere of the old photos more than the new, but not those two of Esplanade and Princess (which started out as Princes) Street.
Earlscourt_Lad
Active Member
I would have to respectfully disagree with you on that point. If you can afford a good tailor, it is usually money well spent. The better fit, the better options, choice of materials, the sound advice, all add up to something a bit better than a ready-made (even an expensive ready-made), in my opinion.
I recommend Green Shag on Queen, as a nice start for those around my age (30). Start with some shirts, and remember that it takes a while to build up a bespoke wardrobe.
Mustapha
Senior Member
Thanks Earlscourt_Lad. I had forgotten about expensive ready-made. When I think of ready made/off the rack I think of Moores or The Bay. Holt Renfrew and Harry Rosen have lots of happy customers but their ready-made prices can approach that of tailor-made.
Another option: I've opted for "made-to-measure" at Harry Rosen in the past - they take a picture of you standing against a grid wearing a stock jacket that is closest to your size. The factory - Coppley, I think, in Hamilton, makes up something that fits very well.
Still another option: Offshore tailors. These guys run ads in the Globe & Mail and come to Toronto and rent a hotel room. You come in and get measured and the suit is made in Hong Kong and is shipped to you. I've no experience with this but the guys at the gym who've opted for this look good.
My tailor rec is Trend on Sherbourne street. Ask for Don Lee, proprietor.
A tailor-made suit starts in the low 4 figures but if you guys are working and can put off another Apple or audio purchase or Sandals vacation wouldn't you rather turn heads? Too late for me but you younger guys will benefit.
There is an side benefit to tailored clothing - the button closure on a jacket has about one inch of play. One CANNOT gain weight. There have been days when I opted for a glass of milk instead of a meal.
thecharioteer
Senior Member
Gentlemen:
When all else fails: either think British:
or Cary Grant:
or Marcello Mastroianni:
When all else fails: either think British:
or Cary Grant:
or Marcello Mastroianni:
DTowner
Active Member
I've always been afraid of going in there. Lol.
DTowner
Active Member
Totally. The underground walkways, Eaton Centre, the subway, city sprawl — all have contributed to a seemingly dead street level.
Mustapha
Senior Member
Gentlemen:
When all else fails: either think British:
or Cary Grant:
or Marcello Mastroianni:
"The soft shoulder is overrated and often a mistake. It actually looks poorly on 82% of men. We just don't know it. Or don't acknowledge it.
Because of its iconic status, many are tempted to try it, becoming covetous and desirous of an ever softer and rounder silhouette. This is natural given a bespoke aficionado's natural curious and adventurous bent. The problem is that most continue with it, adopt it unquestioningly and wear it exclusively.
However, once the curiosity is sated, it should be equally expected that a bespeaker be forthright and clear eyed when he faces his reflection in the mirror. And then be honest.
Friends, the soft shoulder is probably not for you.
Is it time to reassess the soft shoulder?
The soft shoulder can look childish, almost prepubescent. Round and not yet formed. Or elderly.
Self effacing, tentative, uncertain as if the wearer wished to melt in the background with a surfeit of modesty, apologetic.
It does sloped shoulders no favor. Nor bullish torsos. So few can wear it. Or should.
The soft shoulder is slovenly for a suit. It is not serious. It is not elegant. It is not meant for a suit.
Remember, in Napoli, the ancestral home of the soft shoulder, the elegant Neapolitan prefers a squared shoulder for his formal suits and this is what you will see in Naples. The rounded, soft shoulder is saved for daytime Summer wear and sports jackets. It perfectly suits the torrid Mediterranean climate there and frivolous, delightful pursuits. This is where it should stay.
And Scholte's silhouette, a military inspiration, was originally a decidedly masculine coat: slightly extended shoulders, swelled chest, nipped waist: meant to be a forceful, powerful silhouette. Not round and limp, flaccid, as often interpreted today. A Scholte shoulder did not shirk its duty of presenting the warrior with a formidable silhouette.
The soft shoulder, as tailored today, is often a gross exaggeration, a complement to the overstuffed shoulder, it bathes its wearer in roundness, a surfeit of cloth, both the antithesis of sprezzatura as both are sartorial conceits, each guilty of self consciousness though at opposite extremes. Indeed, I would call them a fashion, though a fashion followed by the bespoke crowd.
No, what is needed is a hard headed assessment of what looks good on each of us. As much as we may want to wear a particular silhouette, we just may not be able to. Face it manfully.
Friends, the squared shoulder is forceful, elegant and formal. The soft shoulder is not. The numerous photos of unfortunate round shouldered besuited men, otherwise beautifully dressed in the finest cloth, who I see pictured time and time again can be simply corrected if they looked at their reflections critically. We need openness and a willingness to accept, at least consider, that the squared shoulder coat may well be more suitable and attractive.
Yet the soft shoulder can be artful, louche, degage, the perfect silhouette. Who should wear it? And when?
It must be worn in its appropriate environment, with suitable intent and attitude, with proper cloth and in its proper context where elegance is not demanded but rather play contemplated, and casual insouciance called for. At such times, I put on a soft shoulder coat regardless that it is not the best looking silhouette on me. But it fits my mood of relaxation and casual pursuits and so, is the right choice. I view the soft shoulder as decidedly casual. To be chosen and preferred for sports coats alone.
But if I have something serious to talk about, with serious, dour, gray men, I'll put on a suit and I'll reach for a square shoulder suit every time. Or indeed, apart from business, even if a sports coat, if I want to feel sharp, elegant and indeed, well dressed, well, it must again be the squared shoulder. In contrast, the soft shoulder is weak, indeed, soft. While the squared shoulder is sharp, exudes, and indeed, instills confidence. It has a forceful, vital, masculine, rather than retiring, demeanour.
I know that the last thing many of you may want is an aggressive shoulder but this is a misperception. I know that putting on a square shoulder after you have become used to a round shoulder may be a shock. It may appear too aggressive, too noticeable. You may feel that it shouts. You may think that it does not reflect your personality, who you perceive yourself to be or your values of traditional, understated conservatism. You may be wrong.
And truth be told, the soft shoulder has become mythic, the object of endless discussion and desire. while the squared shoulder has received short shrift. How unfortunate.
Why is this? Why is it so difficult to cross the street from A&S to Huntsman? Figuratively. Both silhouettes have a long, venerable heritage, both are traditional and conservative, both have found favor among the best dressed men. The difference?: the square shoulder will probably look much better on you though it certainly may take a gigantic leap to even consider the possibility.
Certainly, the square shoulder certainly looks better on me than a soft, round shoulder. I know that. And though I would rather be at play than work, well, the squared shoulder suit is the more serious, elegant choice when that is called for. I'll save the soft shoulder for Via Filangieri and not Fatebenefratelli; it does not travel well to the city. Soft is a bit too rustic. Leave the round, soft coat to float lightly over the Bay of Naples like a dream while you enjoy a spritz. Each silhouette has its place and time.
Ofcourse, I most often want to dress casually. Who wants to dress sharply and at his best all the time? Or look his best? Or even to try? At these times, I'll reach for my softest, roundest, most comfortable sports coat. I wear it for me. I wear it to relax. But I don't confuse it for looking great on me. It doesn't. But it feels good and it satisfies me.
Who said that bespoke should look good? Certainly not the self-satisfied, soft shouldered warriors. But they have the privilege of looking any which way they please. Isn't it enough that it is their bespoke, unique creation? Yes, good, bad or indifferent."
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9857
thecharioteer
Senior Member
Great article, Mustapha (and a very interesting source; who knew such discussions were going on?)
One should also remember that a good suit is very versatile, as shown in this 1924 photo of Douglas Fairbanks doing one-handed chin-ups in Toronto:
Let's also remember that there's nothing quite like a good cashmere overcoat (with a silk scarf), as worn by Sterling Hayden visiting Toronto in 1942:
One should also remember that a good suit is very versatile, as shown in this 1924 photo of Douglas Fairbanks doing one-handed chin-ups in Toronto:
Let's also remember that there's nothing quite like a good cashmere overcoat (with a silk scarf), as worn by Sterling Hayden visiting Toronto in 1942:
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J T CUNNINGHAM
Senior Member
" . . . a good cashmere overcoat (with a silk scarf), as worn by Sterling Hayden visiting Toronto in 1942:" QUOTE thecharioteer.
C'mon Charioteer, that's not Sterling Haydon!
That's General JACK D RIPPER as a young man.
Reguards,
J T
C'mon Charioteer, that's not Sterling Haydon!
That's General JACK D RIPPER as a young man.
Reguards,
J T
Urban Shocker
Doyenne
I like the idea of a dressy, buttonless trenchcoat, especially on someone tall and slim ... but it requires a certain finesse in the wearing that this guy can't manage. When the wrapped-around effect slips ( as above ) it gives the impression of someone who just got out of bed and threw on their dressing gown, and the parting of the coat at crotch level, combined with the hands in pockets stance and the wide-apart legs, make it too creepy/pervy for words.
J T CUNNINGHAM
Senior Member
"... but it requires a certain finesse in the wearing that this guy can't manage." QUOTE Urban Shocker
NO WATER FOR YOU, Urban Shocker!
Regards,
J T
NO WATER FOR YOU, Urban Shocker!
Regards,
J T
Mustapha
Senior Member
Well, there is still a Toronto angle in all this fashion nonsense :
Douglas Fairbanks married a Toronto girl - Mary Pickford. She starred in movies. Was born in a house where the Hospital for Sick Children stands now.
They started United Artists movie studios.
His last words were:
"I've never felt better."
: Douglas Fairbanks married a Toronto girl - Mary Pickford. She starred in movies. Was born in a house where the Hospital for Sick Children stands now.
They started United Artists movie studios.
His last words were:
"I've never felt better."